Makarska: Nuns Take Over the Beach

On arrival to Split, and having undergone some SERIOUS patience testing from a number of small children on a coach, we checked into our gorgeous apartment.

For anyone contemplating a visit to Split, I highly recommend Split Inn Apartments. Our ‘studio’ apartment consisted of a huge double room, bathroom, kitchen, dining room and balcony – not very ‘studio’ but definitely a nice surprise.

We spent the rest of the day wandering round Split, and found the only sandy beach we managed to find all week – more on that later. After some food, beer, and more beer, we retreated back to our apartment to prepare for the next day.

Day number two arrived, and so began our first little adventure down the south coast to Makarska. About 60km southeast of Split, Makarska is a small Riviera which is worth the visit just to see the views of the Croatian coast on the journey down (unless you hate heights/crazy roads/rather large mountains/fearing for your life at every corner or bend).

We boarded a bus from Split bus station and paid a mere 35 kuna (£3.50) for a single ticket to Makarska. The journey takes about an hour and a half but offers unprecedented views along winding mountainous roads and through gorgeous coastal villages. If you’re a sicky traveller like Joelle, I’d advise taking something to calm the nerves for the journey – and if you have a fear of heights, don’t look down.

On arrival to Makarska, we made the way down towards the coast. It’s worth mentioning the incredible mountainous backdrop, which allows for brilliant photo opportunities when you get to the beach.


We had a wander around the ‘city’ – which I would say is no larger than a small town, and instantly recognised the peace and tranquillity of the place. We took a walk to the beach to lay our weary heads after a couple of beers and realised what we had been told was true. Nearly all of the beaches in Croatia are pebbled. This doesn’t affect the beauty of them, but Christ it hurts your feet/bum/anything it touches. Something we learned a little late on in the week is this: many street vendors sell ‘sea shoes’ for about a fiver. They WILL save your feet, and life, although aren’t the most fashionable accessory.

After making conversation with an eight-year-old American girl, who was trying to sell me ‘ice-cream’ made of pebbles, Joelle and I went in search of real ice-cream and another beer or two to stay hydrated in the heat. We came across the most beautiful, tiny secluded little beach with no more than four people on – we had quite literally found paradise. Or so we thought…

It couldn’t have been more than five minutes before a HUGE group of school girls came trampling down the stairs to ruin our little slice of heaven, followed by none other than eight nuns and a priest.

It wasn’t long before our silence was ruined by the group of nuns who decided to take refuge on the wall next to where we were sat, progressing into fits of screams and giggles every time they dipped their feet in the sea.


After a couple of sneaky photos (come on, who wouldn’t) we upped and left our slice of paradise-no-longer to board the coach home. It’s worth mentioning that the coaches are comfortable, well-maintained and air-conditioned, so the journey isn’t too painful. Water and food at every coach station is more than double the price of anywhere else, so I’d recommend stocking up at a nearby supermarket.

Makarska is stunningly beautiful. Although it’s fair to say we didn’t witness everything the place had to offer, it is a nice and tranquil destination on the coast. For those looking for somewhere with hustle and bustle, Makarska may not be the place for you, though it does offer a good selection of quiet bars and restaurants.

Stay tuned for the next installment in Brač , featuring the drunken Americans who hijacked our pedalo slide…


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